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Marquise Diamond: A Shape Born of a Royal Smile - Jewelry by Cleo
diamond shape faq

Marquise Diamond: A Shape Born of a Royal Smile

The Marquise Cut is the shape for the woman who isn’t afraid to be the center of attention. Often called the "Navette" (French for "little ship"), it is a shape steeped in royal drama and designed for maximum impact.

At Jewelry by Cleo, we love the Marquise for its sheer audacity. It is a shape that refuses to be ignored, offering a unique blend of vintage regality and sharp, modern edge.

A Shape Born of a Royal Smile

Legend has it that the Marquise cut was commissioned by King Louis XV of France, who wanted a diamond cut into the shape of the perfectly formed lips of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour.

  • The Illusion of Size: Because of its long, narrow silhouette, the Marquise has the largest "face-up" surface area of any diamond shape. This means a 1-carat Marquise will look significantly larger than a 1-carat Round or Cushion.

  • The Slimming Effect: Much like the Oval or Elongated Cushion, the Marquise creates a beautiful vertical line on the hand, making fingers appear longer and more slender.

Finding Your Perfect Silhouette

When browsing our Loose Stones, you’ll see that Marquise diamonds vary in their "personality" based on their length-to-width ratio:

  • The Traditionalist: A ratio of 1.75 to 2.15 provides that classic, balanced "football" shape.

  • The Modernist: Ratios above 2.25 create a very long, slender, "stiletto" look that is incredibly chic in modern settings.

Styling Your Marquise at Jewelry by Cleo

The Marquise is surprisingly versatile. Depending on how you orient it, the vibe changes completely:

  • The North-South Solitaire: The classic orientation. Our Cleo Flat Band Solitaire is a fan favorite for this, offering a sleek, minimal look that lets the unique shape take center stage.

  • The East-West Bezel: For the ultimate modern-cool girl. Setting the Marquise horizontally (East-West) in a gold bezel is one of our signature "vault" looks. It’s edgy, durable, and completely unique.

  • The Fancy Trilogy: Flanking a Marquise with small round or pear diamonds adds a layer of sophistication that feels like a modern tiara for your finger.

Pro Tip: Always ensure your Marquise is set with V-prongs at the tips. These prongs wrap around the sharp points to protect them from chipping, ensuring your heirloom lasts a lifetime.

Your Vision. Our Craft.

Whether you want a dainty 0.50ct Marquise on a thin gold wire or a 4.00ct statement stone in an East-West bezel, we are here to help you find the right balance of grit and grace.

Ready to find your match? Explore our Loose Marquise Collection or message us to start a Bespoke Custom design today.

READY TO MAKE SOMETHING YOURS?

Every Cleo piece starts with a conversation — about what you're envisioning, what the piece means, and what will make it exactly right. There's no pressure and no commitment. Just a conversation with Gabrielle.

→ Start your custom design questionnaire
→ Browse the Diamond Vault
→ DM us on Instagram @jewelrybycleo

Questions? Reach Gabrielle directly on WhatsApp — she responds personally.

marquise diamond ring

JbC advice

Marquise Diamond 4Cs

The Marquise is a technical shape that requires a keen eye. Here is what we look for when vetting stones for the JbC Vault.

CUT (The "Bow-Tie" Check)
Nearly all Marquise diamonds have a "bow-tie"—a dark shadow across the center of the stone. A slight bow-tie is normal, but a heavy one can kill the diamond’s life.

  • JbC Advice: We look for stones where the bow-tie is minimal or blends seamlessly into the sparkle. You want light to "dance" across the whole stone, not get stuck in a dark center.

SYMMETRY (Critical)
Because the Marquise is pointed at both ends, any lack of symmetry is immediately obvious.

  • JbC Advice: Ensure the two points align perfectly. If one side is even slightly more curved than the other, the ring will always look "off." We check for perfect alignment in every stone we source.

COLOR (The Tips Matter)
Like the Pear and Oval, the Marquise tends to show color more at its points.

  • JbC Advice: If you are sensitive to warmth, stay in the D–F range. However, if you love our signature yellow gold settings, an H or I color can look beautifully antique and intentional.

CLARITY (Point Protection)
The points of a Marquise are its most vulnerable areas.

  • JbC Advice: Inclusions at the very tips are usually fine because they will be covered by a protective prong (V-prong) or a bezel. Focus on finding a stone that is VS2 or SI1 and "eye-clean" in the center.