Art Deco sophistication: the Asscher Diamond

The Asscher Cut is often called the "square emerald," but to those who know diamonds, it is so much more. It is the pinnacle of Art Deco sophistication—a shape that feels like a portal into a hall of mirrors, combining 1920s glamour with a sharp, modern geometric edge.

At Jewelry by Cleo, we recommend the Asscher to the true connoisseur. It is a stone for someone who isn't looking for a "disco ball" sparkle, but rather a deep, hypnotic glow.

The Magnetism of the "Windmill"

Created in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Amsterdam, this cut was the first-ever patented diamond cut. It is defined by its clipped corners and deep, step-cut facets.

The Hall of Mirrors: Like the Emerald cut, the Asscher features linear facets. Because it is square, these facets create a mesmerizing "X" pattern when you look through the table, often referred to as the "Windmill" effect.
Quiet Luxury: The Asscher doesn't shout. It reflects light in broad, dramatic flashes. It is the ultimate "if you know, you know" diamond shape.
Architectural Depth: With a higher crown and smaller table than an emerald cut, the Asscher has a unique, "towering" presence that gives it incredible vintage character.

Finding the JbC "True Square"

In our Loose Stone Steals, we are incredibly picky about Asscher proportions. A "wonky" Asscher loses its magic.

The Ratio: We aim for a ratio of 1.00 to 1.05. An Asscher must look like a perfect square to maintain that iconic concentric-square reflection pattern.

Styling Your Asscher at Jewelry by Cleo

The Asscher is a statement of personal style. At JbC, we love to play up its architectural roots:

The Vintage Solitaire: Our "Cleo Classic" setting with double-claws (eight prongs total) emphasizes the clipped corners and makes the stone look like a royal heirloom.
The Step-Cut Trilogy: Pairing an Asscher center with tapered baguette side stones creates a continuous, "stepped" look across the finger that is the height of Art Deco elegance.
The Modern Bezel: For a sleek, everyday look, a low-profile bezel setting protects the Asscher’s corners and highlights its geometric silhouette.

A Cut Above the Rest

The Asscher is for the person who values history, precision, and a look that transcends trends. At Jewelry by Cleo, we are obsessed with finding that one-in-a-million Asscher that has the perfect "windmill" flash.

Ready to find your hall of mirrors? [Explore our Curated Asscher Collection] or [Start a Custom Project] with our team to source a one-of-a-kind stone.

READY TO MAKE SOMETHING YOURS?

Every Cleo piece starts with a conversation — about what you're envisioning, what the piece means, and what will make it exactly right. There's no pressure and no commitment. Just a conversation with Gabrielle.

→ Start your custom design questionnaire
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Questions? Reach Gabrielle directly on WhatsApp — she responds personally.

Solitaire with Shoulder Accents 2 - Jewelry by Cleo

JbC advice

Asscher Diamond 4Cs

Because the Asscher has a large, open top (the table), it is one of the most "revealing" cuts in existence. You cannot hide flaws here.

CLARITY (The Gold Standard) Just like its cousin the Emerald cut, the Asscher acts as a window.

JbC Advice: We strongly recommend a clarity of VS1 or higher. Because the facets are so large and clear, even a tiny "pepper" inclusion (a small black spot) will be magnified by the step-cuts.

COLOR (The Depth Factor) Asschers are cut deep, which means they tend to "trap" color more than a shallow stone like a Marquise.

JbC Advice: To keep that crisp, "ice cube" look, stay in the D–F range. If you love a moody, vintage vibe and are setting it in 18k Yellow Gold, a G or H can work beautifully, but the warmth will be more noticeable than in a Round Brilliant.

CUT (The "Windmill" Symmetry) The beauty of an Asscher depends entirely on how the facets meet in the center.

JbC Advice: Look for the "X" to meet perfectly in the middle. If the facets are misaligned, the "hall of mirrors" effect will look distorted. We hand-vet every Asscher in the JbC Vault to ensure perfect optical symmetry.

CARAT (Visual Weight) Asschers are "bottom-heavy" stones. Much of their carat weight is hidden in the depth of the stone.

JbC Advice: A 1.50ct Asscher will look visually smaller than a 1.50ct Round or Oval. If you want a "big" look, you may need to go up slightly in carat weight or choose a setting that enhances its footprint.